Hell’s Half Acre

We just went boogieboarding today. I noticed that while the tide was out it seemed that the waves were smaller and there’s two sets of waves. Except they’re formed from the second set of waves. The second set of waves come in and cap a ways from shore, and then, while the water’s surging forward, it forms into the first set of waves. And then they cap and also me and Pike made large castles. I spent a lot of time on a huge moat and a thick gate but Pike made this huge kind of palace like castle. With turrets and everything. But it did not have a huge gate. And then I built a second smaller gate, that did not surround the whole castle like my first gate did. The idea was that when the wave came and hit the second gate the water would surge around the gate and flow into the moat but then the moat finally filled up with sand but after that as the tide came in, the waves seemed to get smaller. Until me and Pike decided we’d just go out on our boards and because then we noticed that the waves out (the second set) were a lot larger than they were when we first went boogieboarding. So we went out for a while and we noticed it was really deep and we couldn’t touch the bottom. Which wasn’t very good because when a large wave caps right in front of you, you have to brace your legs and jump over the bubbling froth coming toward you. But usually you can’t jump over the whole wave so you slam into it, but it helps so it doesn’t push you back all that much. And as I was saying, well, that was the reason why it wasn’t very good that it wasn’t shallow. But we made it to around where the second setter’s cap, barely. And we were just waiting there for a large wave to come and I made one of my random sweeps of the water and I noticed that it seemed like way down the beach there was a huge wave capping. I looked in front of me and there was the huge wave. coming right at us. I knew that right around where I was it was going to cap and I wouldn’t have a chance and I’d get pushed off the boogieboard so I swam toward the wave. It may sound crazy but I noticed on another beach that had big waves that if you get a wave before it caps and if you’re not too far away from shore you can ride it in. And when it caps it isn’t too bad. I don’t know why that is, but it worked this time and usually the second set of waves don’t usually push you exactly to shore, but this one did. And as I said, the first set, it formed into another wave, as I was slowing down and I’d just made it over the top and down as it capped I noticed, after a while, that Pike wasn’t beside me. (I’m begging Jesse to END THE STORY NOW) And I shall grant mom’s wishes.